What Is Unagi? Tokyo’s Grilled Eel Guide for Tourists (2026)

Quick Answer: Unagi is Japanese freshwater eel, split open, skewered, and grilled with a sweet soy-based glaze called kabayaki. It is never served raw. In Tokyo you can eat it for as little as ¥640 at a chain or pay ¥4,000–¥7,000 at an old specialty shop. The two things to know before you order: a rice bowl (unadon) is the casual version and a lacquered box (unaju) is usually the higher grade, and Tokyo grills its eel softer than Osaka does. Eel is also at its most popular in midsummer — in 2026 the traditional eel day, Doyo no Ushi, falls on July 26.

Unagi sits in a strange spot for visitors. It is one of Japan’s most loved foods, it appears on station-building menus and in 200-year-old shops alike, and yet it can cost more than a sushi lunch. This guide explains what you are actually eating, how to order it, what the price tiers mean, and how it differs from its lookalike cousin, anago.

What is unagi, exactly?

Unagi (うなぎ) is freshwater eel. It is born at sea, swims up rivers to grow, and returns to the ocean to spawn. For the table it is almost entirely farm-raised in Japan, and Japan has long been one of the world’s biggest consumers of freshwater eel (Wikipedia: Japanese eel).

The classic preparation is kabayaki (蒲焼き): the eel is filleted, skewered, grilled, and brushed with a glossy tare sauce of soy, mirin, sugar, and sake. There is also a plainer version called shirayaki (白焼き), grilled without sauce and eaten with a little wasabi or salt, which lets you taste the fish itself.

One point worth knowing: unagi is not eaten raw. Eel blood contains a protein that is harmful to humans but is broken down by heat, so eel is always cooked through. If you have seen “eel” on a raw sushi menu, that is usually anago (covered at the end of this guide) and it, too, is cooked.

Unadon, unaju, or hitsumabushi?

The dish names confuse a lot of first-timers. Here is the short version.

Hitsumabushi is the fun one to order if you want a small ritual. You divide the eel and rice into quarters: eat the first plain, the second with condiments like spring onion and wasabi, the third with dashi broth or tea poured over it (like ochazuke), and the fourth whichever way you liked best.

Tokyo style vs Osaka style

If you eat unagi in Tokyo and then again in Osaka, you may notice the texture is different — and that is on purpose. The two regions cut and cook the eel in opposite ways (Hamamatsu eel restaurant association).

The story Tokyo cooks tell is that cutting an eel along the belly reminded the city’s samurai of seppuku, so they cut along the back instead; in merchant-minded Osaka, “belly to belly” was the friendly way to do business. Whether or not the legend is exact, the steaming step is the real reason a Tokyo unaju tends to melt more softly than its Osaka counterpart.

What it costs in Tokyo

Unagi has a wide price range, so it helps to know roughly which tier you are walking into.

Prices shift with the eel market, so treat these as a guide rather than a fixed menu. A budget bowl is a genuinely good introduction; the jump in price at a long-established shop pays for the grade of eel, the tare recipe handed down over generations, and the room itself.

How to order and eat it

A few small habits make the meal smoother.

• Sansho pepper. Most shops put out a small shaker of sansho, a citrusy Japanese pepper. A light shake cuts the richness of the eel — try it on half your portion first.
• Liver soup. Many specialty shops offer kimosui, a clear soup with eel liver. It is optional and often a small add-on.
• Wait time. A good unagi shop grills to order, so a set can take 20–40 minutes. This is normal, not slow service.
• Reservations. Famous old shops can be fully booked; if you have your heart set on one, see our Tokyo restaurant booking guide for English-friendly options.

When Japan eats unagi: Doyo no Ushi

You will see eel everywhere in midsummer. The custom is to eat unagi on Doyo no Ushi (土用の丑の日), the “midsummer ox day,” for stamina against the heat. In 2026 the summer Doyo no Ushi falls on July 26, and there is only one such day this year (Tokyo Gas Uchikoto).

The tradition is often traced to the Edo-period scholar Hiraga Gennai, who is said to have advised a struggling eel shop to promote the day — an early piece of food marketing that stuck for over two centuries. You can eat unagi any time of year, but expect higher demand, queues, and supermarket displays around late July.

Where to try it in Tokyo

You do not need to track down a single famous address. Unagi shops are spread across the city, and a few patterns help.

• Asakusa and the old east side keep many traditional shops, fitting if you are already visiting Sensoji.
• Department store basements (depachika) and station buildings sell grilled eel boxes to take away, handy if your accommodation has a table.
• Chains like Unatoto have branches near major stations for a quick, low-cost first taste.

If you are staying in a short-term rental, a takeaway unaju from a depachika travels well and reheats easily — see our Airbnb starter guide for kitchen basics.

Why is unagi so expensive?

The price reflects genuine scarcity. The Japanese eel (Anguilla japonica) has been listed as Endangered on the IUCN Red List since 2014, and the catch of young eels has fallen sharply over the decades (National Geographic). Farmed eel still depends on wild-caught juveniles, so a poor season pushes wholesale prices up — Tokyo wholesale eel reached well over ¥5,000 per kilogram in recent years (Nippon.com).

That background is part of why a small box of eel can cost as much as it does, and why many shops treat it as a special-occasion dish rather than everyday food.

Unagi vs anago: telling them apart

You will meet a second eel on sushi menus: anago (穴子). It looks similar but is a different fish with a different role, so it is worth a quick comparison before you order.

In short: if you want eel as a main meal over rice, that is unagi. If you see a soft, pale piece of eel on top of sushi, that is most likely anago. Both are cooked, never raw — see our Tokyo sushi guide for where anago fits among other toppings.

FAQ

Is unagi eaten raw?
No. Eel blood contains a protein that is harmful to humans but breaks down with heat, so unagi is always grilled or otherwise cooked through.

What is the difference between unadon and unaju?
The food is the same — grilled eel on rice. Unadon is served in a round bowl and is the casual version; unaju comes in a lacquered box and is usually a higher grade at a higher price.

Why is unagi so expensive?
The Japanese eel is an endangered species, and farms still rely on wild-caught young eels. Tight supply keeps wholesale prices high, which is passed on to the menu.

What is hitsumabushi?
A Nagoya-style serving eaten in three stages: plain, with condiments, then with broth or tea poured over the rice. The fourth quarter is eaten whichever way you preferred.

When do Japanese people eat unagi?
Year-round, but especially on Doyo no Ushi, the midsummer eel day. In 2026 it falls on July 26.

How much does unagi cost in Tokyo?
From around ¥640 for a bowl at a budget chain to ¥4,300–¥7,000 or more for an unaju at an old specialty shop.

What is the difference between unagi and anago?
Unagi is freshwater eel with a rich, fatty taste, usually served grilled over rice. Anago is saltwater conger eel, lighter and softer, usually served as sushi or tempura.

Does unagi contain alcohol?
The tare glaze is typically made with mirin and sake. The alcohol mostly cooks off, but travelers who avoid alcohol for dietary or religious reasons may wish to ask the shop. See our halal dining notes for related guidance.

What is the pepper served with unagi?
Sansho, a citrusy Japanese pepper. A light shake balances the richness of the eel.

Is it ethical to eat an endangered eel?
This is a personal choice. Conservation groups have raised concerns about the Japanese eel’s status, while the industry works on full-cycle farming. Eating it occasionally and knowingly is how many visitors approach it.